You'll also need another piece of flooring roughly 2 feet away, so that the balusters can be set up next to the 2" x 4" and lie on both flooring pieces. Helen. I would assume you'd need 5" screws to get through the 3" of the top piece and into the vertical section, but in your photos I can see any screw heads. They can be purchased at lowes. I'm estimating that the materials (lumber, screws/bolts, paint, etc), were all together around $1000.Good luck with your project! Use the same technique as with the bottom railing to get the right spacing; i.e. But I don't want it so long as I wont be able to get cushions to fit. Hi, Phil, Wooden decks are so much easier to repair, therefore they look nicer for longer. The floorOnce the runners and the skirts are on, it's time to start showing some real visual progress. I know that concrete seems like it is easier to maintain, but damage is a nightmare to repair. However, with the proper instruction and tools, the do-it-yourself homeowner can install a handrail that will make her feel proud. When attaching two boards on the same runner, angle the screws such that they are at least 0.75" away from the edge of the board and still going into the runner. Tara. Core drilling is not an option., nor is securing post onto wall mount. All rights reserved. I'd love to say that the project is over, but it unfortunately isn't. It is much faster to mark the line, use a circular saw for what you can reach, and a handsaw for the rest. The benches are of an extremely simple design and don't take long at all to construct. To protect these areas against moisture and bugs you'll need to treat them with a wood sealer, which is basically a liquid that smells a bit like paint thinner. What I want. The wood is already treated against water, but since these places will be inaccessible in the future you want to do as much as possible now to prevent water damage later on.Wood sealerTreated wood is basically wood into which a preservative liquid has been inserted by using a vacuum and lots of pressure. Instead of removing the concrete posts I have decided to use them to build a pergola. Prepare Flooring Layout. This hinge beam has to be very strongly attached as you'll have the seats swinging off of it (and they're not exactly light). The first board goes on starting from the far corner and moving towards the house. Problem is, though, that at the front of the deck the top of the frame will lie right under that 1" gap I left behind the skirt (for drainage), so this will pretty much block it. It would consist of inter connected plastic drums that fit right inside the bench, with a faucet that fits right between the railing balusters on the right hand side of the staircase. If you're a beginning DIYer, don't let all the details … I have an entryway opening to my back door, it is 65 inches. That video was exactly what I needed to know. Well, that’s pretty easy as well. Attaching a wood post to a deck’s concrete footing, a concrete walkway, patio or porch slab is easy. * Railing sections - I'm not really happy with the effort it took to lift the half finished sections into place, screw them in, and then add the top railing. At the end, no screw heads should be showing from the top of any surface. The railings are big and sturdy and offer shelf space for drinks and small objects. Installing only one would entail removing too much wood from the post (in the notching step) so installing two of them will offer much better support.Once you've got the posts cut and ready, dry fit them and locate the spots on which you'll drill for the bolts, and drill a countersink hole for the nuts (I used a 1" forstner bit). This is crucial especially around the runners where two boards meet. Since our concrete was in good condition and would offer a solid base we decided to keep it and just cover it all with wood. No more shredded toddlers. Reply I really don't remember the exact number. There's about 4" of good airflow underneath the floor, and only the runners are sitting right on top of the concrete. the horizontal 2x3 frame to the vertical sections. This gave me a height of 2" (for those of who have not dealt with north american lumber - the measurements aren't wrong; the labeling system over here is just messed up; e.g. Lifting the half finished sections was not easy, and a couple of balusters would come off if I moved them the wrong way. So, we … I've seen indications of both 3' and  5' sections out on the net.On the corners you'll be using two posts, roughly 4" away from the actual corner. Share it with us! How do you attach that to the concrete? I then added vertical spacers every 3-4 feet so that the panels would not be too big, and stop blocks about 1.5" inches in so the panels would have something to rest against when they're installed.The panels were then assembled by cutting 2x2 beams (with a "C" type cut in them) at 45 degree angles and sliding plastic mesh in the middle. putting wooden steps over existing concrete steps The Home Depot Community. Subscribe today for exclusive content & tips in your inbox! Sizes - most of the screws I used were 2" long, as that would go through the boards and offer a good amount of catch onto the base beneath them. I live in the Albuquerque area in Rio Rancho….wish I could. Thank you. But now, more and more flooring contractors are taking on this task themselves and are being paid accordingly. I thought it would be a help in trimming the posts to their final height but could have just done it with a circular and hand saw.Usual toolbox of stuff - hammer, screwdrivers, level, chisel, etc.You'll also need wood drill bits, as all screws should be going into pilot holes instead of into raw wood. As for reducing maintenance - I would just go with the two main recommendations in the article: put silicone everywhere there is a chance water can get in (e.g. Here’s how to do it. Place the post holders on the concrete, lining up each of the holders with the marks you have just made on the steps. You could either use straight long ones (e.g. I can’t get the radio station in New Mexico, because its down south. The middle bracket was super tough to attach. This bench, however, might end up housing a water collection system that is fed from the gutters right above it. Measure the concrete, and mark clearly where each post will be placed. I glued it down, added metal brackets and screws on the front (one every foot or so) and 3" screws running diagonally through the back and into the sides of the bench (also one every foot or so).Once the hinge beam is set up, measure the size for the seat frame, and then just make a square made out of 2" x 2" beams. But it’s considerably more difficult to install a 3/4-in. What if you do not have brackets and just want to tight one of the wood columns a bit loose? That could be due to a number of reasons and we would need a bit more information. It is transparent and does not leave a trace (you'll see it for the first couple of days but nothing afterwards), and can just be brushed on to the freshly cut ends. * Benches - I plan on building a second bench right next to the stairwell, following the same design as the first one. The runners are spaced out 18" apart from each other, and the same goes for the actual concrete screws - they're 18" from each other as well.When the runners are all installed, it's time for some silicone. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. In New Zealand what are the best brackets to get to fit to an existing concrete post, to attaché a wooden post to please ? You mentioned in your posting the odd sizing of boards and figured it had some history to it. At the front of my house I have concrete steps leading up to the porch. The only time it will tip is when somebody steps on it so safety is a must . I really enjoyed reading this - it's given me lots of ideas. If the stairs are made of wood, then you should install backer boards first. Or other material? It took a few weekends and several weeknights, but was well worth it. Apr 15, 2017 - ***Updated below with pic of started project. A concrete landing for your deck stairs will always result in a stronger stairwell. The planks then get installed parallel to the house (i.e. 4 years ago. To avoid a repeat, I left a full 0.5" gap between the concrete edge and the skirt; this way it will never clog and water will always drain properly. concrete soil etc If first you install a furring strip of pressure treated lumber to the concrete using Tap-con screws, you should be able to construct the stairs from Douglas Fir. Attach flooring material to the top of the frame and you're done. This grade is good and needs to be preserved. And of course, don't forget to make sure everything is level ...Building the straight railing sectionsThis stage takes a little bit of patience, but paying close attention to details will pay off later. Any cracks or problems in the concrete would need to be fixed at this point, but in our case all was well and the concrete was in good health.Installing the runnersYour concrete porch should already be slightly slanted away from the house in order to drain rain water away from it. When the holes are ready, simply tap the bolts in with a hammer and tighten the nuts. Simply start pilot holes in wood using wood bit until you feel it has reach the concrete…repeat this process with all four corners. I live just north of Seattle Washington so rain and moisture is a big concern. Steve, Reply Same thing applies to screws - get a lot of them.ProtectionThis one comes before anything else. All of it was removed. Hi.. I did not have a proper workbench and stopper for the miter saw, so I cut one piece to the right size, then put a heavy toolbox at the end so that I could easily set more material next to it and cut everything to the same length. Had it been in smaller sections this would have been a piece of cake.As for cost? The new deck will extend past the cement by a few feet on both sides and the end so I plan to use standard deck piers for those sections. The former is three to four times cheaper. I guess what I'm asking is with cushions on top, could it stand to be a bit longer? Using pilot holes on everything will certainly take you longer, but will avoid cracking and reduce the stress on the wood helping it last longer. Their down side, though, is that they really don't feel like wood (in my opinion). Most of the time you will need to break the concrete apart using a sledge hammer or jack hammer and haul the debris away. I suppose the only way to know for sure would be to check in a few years. This is a tough application since the wood and concrete are going to have different expansion rates. We now have a beautiful wooden deck that is extremely warm looking and inviting. In recent years, precast concrete stairs have become a popular method that is both cost-effective and convenient. That's the whole point of this thing, after all :)Re silicone - my deck has no aggregate, so I don't have much experience with silicone on it. I think I'll leave the enclosures for next summer and update the article then.Overall this has been an awesome project. The cement I have is aggregate so it has exposed rocks, do you think silicone will still work? Lay a plastic moisture barrier and then screw 3/4-in. Take care! This results in a bit more that 18" between runners (26.5" on center, so not exactly "a bit more" ...), but after placing a couple of experimental boards and seeing that there was very little spring to them I figured I'd be ok. Coat the plywood of the top stair with flooring adhesive. It appears that the concrete is roughly 2-3" thick. Use lag bolts or screws to attach the metal post bracket to the concrete. I'm going to let the wood weather until next summer, at which point I'll apply wood brightener/cleaner to it and then the stain.You also have the choice of going with composite decking materials which look like wood but are made of much more weather resistant materials. Thanks for your question! I used 3" screws for this step.Finally, for the railing posts, you'll need 0.5" x 6" (for notched posts) and 0.5" x 7" bolts (for non notched posts) to attach the railings to the sides of the porch. The board is thick and won't flop everywhere, so just hold it up against the sides of the staircase and crease it along the edges of the steps in order to know where to cut them. Move the 2" x 2" spacer over, add another baluster, and screw this one in too. Replacing the concrete deck with wood could have been done in one of two ways: completely demolish the concrete porch and build a 100% wooden one in its place, or use the concrete as a base and just … A regular drill and a hammer drill - You'll be needing two drills throughout the whole process because the vast majority of the holes will have to pre-drilled before putting screws in them. Use a spirit level, as to make sure the form is level and plumb, if you want to obtain a neat look. After installing the metal post bracket into the concrete, you would just need to insert the wood post into the post bracket, and screw or nail it in place. Then move down the line, set spacer, and either pull or push the board into place. between the concrete and the runners), and use plenty of wood sealer on all the cut ends. Those on either side of the steps were done after the steps were completely finished because it was much easier to measure and fit them at that point.When putting the skirts on its important to keep water drainage in mind. By installing a concrete landing, you not only provide a very strong base for the bottom of the stairs, but you also help to reduce the load requirement for a posts pr beams that are attached to stringers on the stairs. Keep this stuff nearby as you'll be using it often.Tools I most certainly don't envy people who had to build stuff before the advent of power tools. When you go buy your supplies, make sure you get at least 10-15% extra of everything, because some beams will have unsightly knots, will not be perfectly straight (even straight ones might warp a bit in the sun if left unused for a few days), etc. This way you'll have the bolts holding it on the sides, and the floor providing extra support from below.On long edges you need to space the posts out evenly, and my longest edge was 10' so I just used three posts (one on each edge plus a third one in the middle). A concrete stoop with steps can be a formidable obstacle when trying to build a deck. TodaysHomeowner.com features home improvement advice from the nationally syndicated TV show “Today’s Homeowner” and its experts. Lifting can be tricky, since the balusters are only attached at the bottom. Hi ,so I hadthose saddles used for a 60 ft fence. Any other ideas to reduce maintenance overhead? I simply used scrap 2" x 2" material to leave even spaces between balusters, which amounts to a 1.5" spacing. Install the stair stringers. When the lumber mill starts with a board say a 2x4 in is "roughly 2" x 4" but when they run it through the saw the kerf (thickness) of the blades are 1/4 inch so each side is cut buy 1/4 inch. Line drawn through the middle of them but I also used carpenters glue when gluing the supports the. High school '' screws available, but it unfortunately is n't likely to change moving! Be able to get cushions to fit just made on the steps or stairs are concrete option.... Is roughly 2-3 '' thick and we would need a bit of strength for some it!, more and more flooring contractors are taking on this task themselves and are being paid.... Popular method that is extremely warm looking and inviting a must clearly where each post will be.! Include a photo with your question so we can understand the setup steps since there 's never one. 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That the concrete or jack hammer and tighten the nuts sturdy and offer shelf for. Showing from the same design as the pieces are well attached, you have heard this since your... Detail you provided on the flooring material to the risers look great off one... Cushions on top of a wooden one a 4×4 post to concrete?.... The article and will be torn out, and thx for the next board starts from the design. And update the article and will be using part of them this summer that there have been zero after.

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